The S35-3 newly designed arms are made from a strong standard nylon material. Optional carbon covers are available to adjust the arm’s stiffness. A new front Ackerman steering system and a unique front shock tower design allow you to change the front upper angle position with ease.The centre plastic BBD diff system provides better acceleration to the S35-3. A new simple radio tray system gives better and more precise throttle and braking response. The T-7075 aluminum chassis come with several new designs. The L.F.C (Lower Friction Coefficient) chassis allow users to install 15-45g balance weight on the chassis CG position. The S35-3 includes high quality parts, a refined shock system, more options and optimized suspension geometry. The SWORKz S35-3 Pro Kit comes standard with many SWORKz Factory Team Option Parts.
SWORKz utilizes only the highest quality materials and industry leading manufacturing processes resulting in a faster, stronger, and more reliable vehicle. The S35-3 Pro Kit has been designed to win.
2. S35 series P-BBD (Plastic Big Bore Diff.) Competition Large Centre Diff. system.
3. S35-3 Series Competition Rear Lower Arm Set.
4. S35 Series Competition Aluminum Rear Hubs.
5. S35-3 Series Competition Steering Plate.
6. S35-3 Series Competition Aluminum Steering Knuckle Plates.
7. S35-3 series L-BBS (Longer Big Bore Shocks) Pro Shock System Set.
8. S35 Series BBS Emulsion Shock Caps.
9. S35-3 Series Front Pro Shock Tower for Longer BBS shocks.
10. S35-3 Series Special Lightened 6mm Axle Wheel Hub.
11. S35-3 6mm Axle Universal Cross Drive Shaft (92.5mm).
12. S35-3 Series Aluminum Rear Lower Fully Adjustable Toe-In Block (A)
13. Option S35-3 Series Pro-composite Carbon Front Upper Arm Covers.
14. S350 professional metal brake calipers 2.0 with S350 Series Competition Brake Discs.
15. S35 Series Falcon Style 3 Clear Body Shell.
Ground Clearance: 65mm
Track: F:302mm / R:306mm
Gear Ratio: C:46/13T, F/R 43/13T
Weight: 3230g(Race condition)
To see the car and all details go to SWORKz’s website here
I will build as per manual and use the default setup. I will not use any upgrades the build will be standard.
Allen Wrench 2.0
Allen Wrench 2.5
Wheel Nuts Wrench 17MM
Long nose pliers
Curved body scissors
Hex wrench 2.0mm
Hex wrench 2.5mm
Glow plug and wheel wrench tool
Double sided tape
Paint for body
Supplied by MW RC Products
Now you can run an unregulated LiPo battery for extreme torque!
The SC-1268SG is the high torque servo you always dreamed of.
Best used for 1/8th scale nitro racing and can push 347.2 oz. of torque.
Higher performance due to increased voltage and improved technology
Increased transit speed
Water resistant with 4 silicon seals implanted
Strong and precise-made steel gears
Suitable for 1/8th nitro racing and large scale aircraft, 600 and 700 class helicopters.
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .15
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 160.0
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .13
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 208.3
Speed(@7.4V sec/60): .11
Torque(@7.4V oz-in): 347.2
Gear: Unique Steel
25 Tooth Spline
Pulse Width Frequency: 1520
Supplied by MW RC Products
Output: 2,6hp @ 33,000 RPM
RPM Range: 3,000 – 40,000 RPM
Glow Plug: Turbo
Supplied by MW RC Products
Electrics, Motor and Exhaust, Other parts: Supplied by MW RC Products
When you start you will also need to open bag-M to get your diff oils ready. The instructions are good just make sure everything is lubricated before assembly, I always put most of the oil in on top of the main gear before placing the planet gears in this makes sure you have oil spread under them before assembly.
When doing up the diff cases make sure you do the screws up diagonally like 1-3 then 2-4 so the surfaces screw down evenly.
Once the diffs were built I was very impressed with how smooth they felt.
NOTE: on the cases plastic tree you will find the anti roll bar fixings, make sure you do not throw them away as you will need them in step 9, see picture below.
There are flashings on the diff cases that need to be removed before fitting the diffs, see pictures below. Clean them up after you have removed them.
When building the Anti roll bar swivels I made all 4 of them so as not to lose the small insets.
Also when tightening the hinge pins do it gradually until you feel some resistance, do not overtighten or you could damage the plastic inserts.
Use the stabiliser guides from step 5+6 above
when you have inserted the plastic clips for the ackerman you may lose some free movement on the arms, if so just sandpaper lightly the clips face until movement is free.
At this stage you can also fit the carbon inserts to the upper arms. See picture below
In the manual it shows two holes for the body mount in the shock tower but in fact there are three holes, I used the bottom most hole this change obviously allows for adjusting height of the body.
Step 18 – 19
I used threadlock on both screws (106007) as when too tight it restricted movement so just do up with threadlock until tight then back off until free movement is achieved.
Also when you screw in the main alu servo saver body to the carbon plate use threadlock here also for the same reason, but only needed on the one screw going into the alu part. So tighten then back off until free.
You will need a 5mm allen key for this part. When you tighten the pivot ball knuckle back off until you get free movement side to side but no free play in and out.
I used threadlock on the small grub screws that stop the pin from coming out on the wheel hub (330574) just to make sure it will not come free.
Tip: Put a wheel on the wheel hub to make it easier to tighten the grub screw home in the wheel hub.
I used a power driver with 2.5mm allen to do the knuckles up into the upper and lower arms, whatever you use make sure you do this top and bottom pivot balls slowly and evenly, so alternate top and bottom until the driveshat locates into the diff outdrives.
In the manual it shows 2501124 as having lugs for the discs but in my kit the centre diff holders did not have these lugs, so don’t panic they are not needed.
Step 34 – 35
Tips: screw the bolts into the chassis braces to pre cut the threads before assembly, this will make your life a lot easier.
When installing the chassis braces do not do up the fr or rr end to the chassis tightly leave it lose, this will enable you to line up the braces and start the screwing but again do not do them up tightly.
When doing the arms, make sure you have them the correct way and the threads in the inserts the right way up look at picture in step 37 of the manual to get the correct orientation for each side and inserts the right way up.
Don’t do the throttle servo up tight until you have run all your cables, I used an electric switch and had to make the cable hole to the right of the switch a little wider to fit the female part of the cable from the switch through it and then to the battery box.
In the manual it references bag M1, I did not have this bag therefore I fitted the standard servo horn for fast steering response in position B, I will enquire about a longer one later for slower response if needed.
Not bag G as stated in the manual, it is bag H, also part 210033A is not included and the pipe retainers are pre assembled on the fuel tank ready, saves time.
Fitting the clutch shoes it a little bit tricky nbut I used a small screwdriver to position the springs under the shoes, just be patient and take your time.
Be aware that when assembling the brake wires there is a larger hole in one of the plastic ends, this goes on top, while the smaller one is for under the servo.
Getting the throttle and brake adjustment right is an important job, make sure your radio settings are correct and do this part bit by bit until correct, you will not need 100% EPA on the radio. Adjust until right slowly and make sure nothing fouls up on the centre diff or anywhere else.
The manual states bag J but it is bag K, the shock length min I could achieve was 45mm rear shocks and 34mm front shocks which is not what is stated in the manual. As long as they are equal lengths for front (34mm) and rear shocks (45mm) you will be ok.
The shock bleed screws have a 1mm allen head so make sure you have one ready or use the one provided with the kit.
I found there was not enough tubing to go around the motor for the fuel line as portrayed in the manual.
It is not bag E but bag N, there were no wing holes but on the back they are marked, just use a body reamer or drill to make the holes.
I did not prep the body as I will try to get it painted by somebody.