Serpent Spyder MM to MH Conversion

Build sponsored by:


AM-410116-BG Allen Wrench 1.5 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-410121-BG Allen Wrench 2.0 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-410126-BG Allen Wrench 2.5 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-410131-BG Allen Wrench 3.0 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-450145-BG Nut Driver 4.5 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-450150-BG Nut Driver 5.0 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-450155-BG Nut Driver 5.5 X 100mm Black Golden
AM-450170-BG Nut Driver 7.0 X 100mm Black Golden


AM-171063 Multi Alu Case For Screws (120X80X18MM) Black Golden
AM-171053 Tools Base Black Golden
AM-500902 Power Tool Tip Set 4 Pieces With Plastic Case (Metric)

Options I will use in this build:

#500504 Upgrade-set 4-gear laydown trans SRX2 MH

Already on my MM:
#500192 Geardiff set SRX2

Setup and build manual used:

The conversion kit details are here

Conversion manual can be downloaded here 

I will be using the 4 gear laydown gearbox manual here also can be used for the 3 gear laydown

I will build the conversion using the MHT manual for high grip carpet, download the latest version of the Manual SRX2 – MHT

I will use Tony Evdoka’s Setup for the build, download the Maritime 3 GEAR Laydown November 2016 but using 4 gear laydown box

The Build will feature:

Tips from Tony Evdoka, Tony is one of the Serpent team developer drivers and has assisted in the development of this car so it is great to have insight from him for the build. I have known Tony for many years and he is also Serpent UK Offroad distributor.

PetitRC Setup Sheet: Arno has made a nice easier editable setup sheet for the MH Download from his website 

Body painted and ready:

Thanks again to Tony for arranging the paintwork, paint done by Jim Currie and #Sickgrafix excellent detailing in the body, I love it.

Before you start: If you intend to use laydown gearbox please remember to push the shocks forward you need the latest rear wishbones, I did not realise this so hence mine did not have shocks forward.

Also now is a good time to clean all parts and refresh oils before you build the conversion. I removed front end as complete and removed the one screw shown in the picture below, it was very easy then to put complete front end together.

Note: I used a low profile servo in the build, please note this makes the front end around 20 gram lighter

Tip 1: if you need more room for electrics then you can cut the 2 side skirts to gain extra room.  It also allows the car to flex slightly more for added grip in that area. See pictures below for Tom’s cutting.

Tip 2: 2 items here – The silver ring washer is critical for the servo horn.  Must fit. Also must have the servo high enough so it doesn’t rub on the chassis.  I have at least 1-2mm gap undermine.  It allows the chassis to flex better for more steering and better over rough terrain  Used ruler

Tip 3: Many are not aware the front wing and the front anti-roll bare fit here instead of the little plug

Tip 4: Once you have settled on the caster you like – I suggest you glue the caster insert  to the steering hub – Remember that then you are sacrificing the hub to the insert.
I actually use the Short course Truck Steering blocks and C Hubs, the geometry is slightly different and makes the car easier to drive plus they are a little stronger than the kit ones.

part numbers 500316 – 500317

Tip 5: I suggest the best tool on the market.  Part number 190504

Tip 6: When more washers are desired on the inner ball stud, it’s important to change the ball for part number 500150 as they are much longer and stay securely fitted.  More washers, less initial steering, less washers more initial steering.  Please do not mistake this for more or less steering.  It’s the initial feel only

Tip 7 continued: If you run 5 degrees caster fit a 2mm washer on hub side of turnbuckle Use the extra ball studs (5001509) from above modification, this stops spring from hitting the turnbuckle due to angle. 
Also follow these tips: 5 degree caster 2mm washer, 2.5 degree caster 1mm washer 0 degree caster no washers, this means by looking at the washers you know exactly what caster you are running.

Tip 8: I always use a light lock tight for any screw that fits into alloy. 

Tip 9: I personally never use oil on the UJs on the shafts.  Oil in my opinion attracts dust and dirt and can be more damaging than the lack of lubrication from the first place Please also follow the same steps with the insert as in step 10 earlier

Tip 10: Please note.  Rear hubs. Put left hub on the right and the right on the left 

Tip 11: I have recently found 2 plus 2 pills is a solid rear hinge pin set up 

Tip 12: I recommend small adjustments to make sure your diff doesn’t slip.  I personally don’t like to tighten the diff then loosen it.  Remember the slipper clutch must slip before the diff

Tip 13: Do not over tighten the bolts clamping the gearboxes

Tip 14: Compress slipper spring, with a large pair of pliers, a few times prior to fitting.

Tip 15: Pinion to spur gear gap.  Many fit paper and all sorts to make a gap – This is not enough.  Make sure there it’s a tight gap but one you can actually hear when rocking the spur all the way round 


Tip 16: Do not over tighten the M2 nut on a standard shock piston.  Use lock tight

Tip 17: The plastic nut on top of the shocks needs a 4.5 nut driver. It is critical it’s not over tightened.  The shock caps must more freely on their mount


Enjoy your racing, Tony Evdoka Team Serpent

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